Garage.HealthSufficiency

Keep Old Cars Running Long Past Their Prime

Thanks for reading this post. It is a wise decision. Now, in all probability, you won’t have to junk that “old friend”. You won’t have to pay $500 to $740 for major repairs or a new engine. You’re about to discover an amazingly easy, economical and effective way to stop your car or truck from burning oil; to restore compression and end plug fouling!

Before getting down to the “1-2-3’s”, let be tell you about my experience and what led to the publishing of this little-known information.

Less than a year ago I bought a “cherry” 1967 Chevy half-ton – a one owner Camper Special that had always been garaged and used solely for recreation. The chrome glistened, the upholstery looked new. The original paint still gleamed with nary a dent or ding. It had all the “goodies” – air conditioning, tranny cooler, even a 110 volt converter for powering appliances while camping.

The odometer read 68,678 miles, and as wear was minimal on the brake and accelerator pedals, I believed the numbers. The owner was buying a new truck and asked only $850. I promptly paid without quibbling, figuring I had a real buy. Drove my bargain about 600 miles and it used very little oil. But, the engine was running a bit rough. Time for a tune-up.

The analyser showed average-good compression except for one “low” cylinder. “You’re getting close to 70,000 miles,” the mechanic remarked, “and about due for a valve job. It’s a good investment for a truck in this shape.” I agreed.

Paid him $150 for the valve job and the fun began. For the first 20-30 miles I rejoiced in my “new truck” smoothness and power. Then, I noticed that I was being followed – by billowing clouds of blue-gray smoke! I went back to the shop. Carburetor may be out of adjustment? No such luck. That smoke was burning oil. The mechanic stared at the engine and scratched his head. Finally, he pointed at the 110 volt converter. “I got a feeling,” he said, “that there is the culprit. Your engine’s got a lot more miles on it than you think. They guy you bought it from probably ran the engine plenty while the truck sat, generating juice for his TV, lights, chain saw, you name it.”

What happened was, the increased compression resulting from the valve job, forced the oil past the worn rings, creating a real “Old Smokey!” Drove it that way for a few weeks, but I was burning a quart of costly oil every 200 miles and getting cross-eyed, looking for (and trying to avoid) cop cars. The plugs fouled so fast that the whole rig shuddered and bucked like a goosed bronco, just a few miles after installing a fresh start.

In short, I was in the position you are now… owning a basically good vehicle you want to keep. I, too, was unwilling to pay the cost of the usual remedy, or buy a new car or truck at today’s inflated prices. Like you’ve probably done, I went to an auto supply store and wistfully read the labels on additive cans that promised to stop oil burning. Picked one up and walked over to the clerk.

“This stuff any good?” I asked. He, more honest than sales oriented, replied: “Dunno. Never heard of it really working.” I walked out without buying.

Couple of days later, trailing my usual cloud of smoke, I stopped at a small gas station-garage at the edge of town. The owner, a thin elderly fellow in grease-splotched bib coveralls, walked over while I was hosing-in gas.

“Nice lookin truck,” he commented. I nodded. “Saw your smoke,’” he added. “Thinkin’ of rebuildin’ the engine?” I replaced the hose in the pump and turned around. “Maybe later,” I shrugged, figuring he was trying to drum up some business. “Costs too damn much.”

He grinned. “Twenty bucks sit favorable?”

“For what?”

“Fixin what’s wrong. Go get a cup of coffee down the street. It’ll be in good shape when you get back.”

“You’ve got to be kidding!”

He wasn’t. Told me he had been a mechanic for nearly 40 years and had rebuilt countless engines. But, for the past year or so, since learning of a new product and devising his own technique for using it, he wasn’t doing much rebuilding. “Gettin too old,” he complained, “to keep tearin engines down and puttin em back together.”

Twenty minutes later, I drove out “memorizing” some instructions. My smoke plume soon disappeared and the engine ran progressively better. Almost immediately oil consumption and plug fouling stopped. Today, nearly 15,000 miles later, I still don’t add oil between changes and you never heard a better running old truck! Now, here’s the “Secret Technique” that venerable master mechanic revealed to me, which you can easily do yourself:-

First, check for and correct any oil leaks around valve covers and oil pan. Tightening bolts may do the trick. If not, install new gaskets or have the work done. (This procedure won’t stop leaks.) If front or rear engine-bearing seals leak, add a can of “Bearing Seal Additive” after Step #2. Chances are it will stop or vastly minimize the problem at low cost. (It did for me.) Okay, here are the 3 Steps:-

1. Drain engine oil and replace oil filter. You’ve probably been using a multi-grade 10-30 or 10-40 weight oil. Or a straight 30 weight oil. Regardless, replace that oil with one grade heavier, single-weight of oil. During warm months, use 40 weight; in the winter (depending on how far the mercury dips in your part of the country) use 20 or 30 weight. Slightly thicker oil won’t hurt that worn engine, and if your battery is good, it’ll turn over fast.

2. Add two cans (30 ounces) of Alemite CD 2 for Oil Burning, which replaces one quart of the oil you would normally use during an oil change. (If capacity with new filter is less than 5 quarts, use one can of the Alemite.)

3. Drive vehicle at town-speed, 20 to 35 miles per hour, for at least 50 miles (a 100 mile distance is better), before opening it up to expressway speeds. That’s all there is to it!

Steps #1 and #3 are the real secret, assuring success when the “usual” additive treatment helps little if at all. Here’s why, as my mechanic friend explained it to me:-

The Alemite contains a substance that builds-up between ring and cylinder wall, forming a tough, long-lasting seal. Problem is, standard 30 weight (in moderate clime) and multi-grade oils are too thin; they don’t have sufficient “body” to prevent most of the sealer from blowing past rings before it can do its job. A heavier, single weight oil retards the blow-by and speeds-up the seal formation.

Driving at moderate speed for the first 50 miles or so, also helps accomplish fast seal build-up. Use a heavy foot on the accelerator immediately after treatment, and the fast-moving pistons pump much of the oil and sealer out the tail pipe.

The sealing compound, after setting-up, isn’t as hard as steel. So, to prevent seal from deteriorating, add one can of the Alemite when changing oil thereafter. You might get away with going back to a thinner or multi-grade oil. But, why bother changing a winning combination!

My success wasn’t a “fluke” or something possible only with my type or make of vehicle! I was so delighted with results that I talked a friend into trying the same remedy. He owned a 1976 Pontiac Grand Prix, a real “Oilcoholic” with more than 120,000 miles of hard driving and lousy maintenance. He dropped from an oil consumption of a quart every 300 miles, to zero oil burning. One of his co-workers, impressed with the “born-again behemoth”, bought a clean classic – a ‘65 Mustang Fastback with a real tired engine – for very little money. Using this procedure, he sold it at a handsome profit!

Soon, as the good news spread, I received reports of many successful applications – on foreign and domestic four-bangers, boats, even a couple of diesel-powered farm tractors. That’s when I decided to advertise this “know-how” in a small way.

Incidentally, I have no connection with the Alemite company, nor is this report based on any “lab tests”. All I know is that this method worked great for me, my friends, their friends, and a bunch of others. I can’t see that there’s any “risk” involved, but my lawyer insists I put this in:- The Seller of this information assumes no liability or responsibility for any vehicle damage resulting from the use of said information, because of factors beyond Seller’s control. Use at your own risk.”

Look at it this way. You didn’t pay $3 for a “testimonial.” You invested a small amount for information that can save you hundreds of dollars. Your present car or truck can now provide you with many months, or even years, of additional service… postpone the need to buy a new vehicle, for a long time to come.

Alemite CD 2 for Oil Burning usually retails for around $2.25 per 15 ounce can; Engine Bearin’ Seal, for about $2.50 for 15 ounces. Both products are widely sold at supermarkets and of course, auto supply stores.

Lee Porter an author and entrepreneur for HealthSufficiency, a continuing health, personal development and life dynamic education and business development company helping people to be meet their potential to lead healthy, prosperous and successful lives.

Tags: engine oil, car, old cars, vintage cars, car maintenance, auto maintenance, automobiles, truck, boat, tractor, Chevvy, auto service,compression, engine seals,

How To Protect Your Car

Always lock your car doors. Be certain all windows are completely closed. When driving, keep all doors locked. It is best to park in attended lots. If you must leave a key with the attendant, leave only the ignition key. In all cases lock your car. At night, park only in well-lighted areas.

If you have a garage, the single lock on the door is inadequate to keep intruders from prying up the opposite side and crawling in. One of three methods may be used to secure the door: (1) Add another bolt and padlock on the opposite side, or (2) Install a pair of cane bolts to the inside – only operable from the inside, or (3) Add a top center hasp. Any person of average height can operate this locking device. The hasp must be of hardened steel and installed with carriage bolts through the door or gate. Use large washers on the inside. After the nuts are secured, deface the treads of the bolt ends with a hammer to keep the nuts from being removed.

In every case, use a minimum standard exterior padlock. Don’t hide a key outside. Most hiding places are obvious to the burglar.

Never leave a padlock unlocked. This is an invitation to have the padlock removed so that a key can be made, and the lock returned to its position. Later, the burglar returns when no one is home and enters at his leisure, using “his” key.

How To Protect Bicycles

You don’t leave your car unlocked, so treat your bicycle the same way. Use an approved chain and padlock whenever you are not on the seat! Lock it to the garage – with a 3/8″ x 6″ eye screw fastened to a stud. The eye screw should be at least 3 feet above the floor, because this makes using a pry bar much more difficult.

Whenever you lock your bike in a public place, chain it to a secure rack or stanchion through the frame and a wheel. Keep the chain as high above the ground as the bike will allow. This reduces the leverage for a pry bar or bolt cutter attack.

Minimum Standard for Approved Chain

Must be at least 5/16″ hardened steel alloy. Links must be of continuous welded construction. Lighter chain, or chain with open links simply will not withstand bolt cutting attacks. Don’t give your bicycle away! Using anything less will invite its theft.

How To Protect Motorcycles

These expensive bikes require additional security measures. They must be secured with a mated 3/8″ hardened steel alloy chain and a padlock of equal strength. Sheathed cable has not proven to be a satisfactory deterrent to theft.

Lighting

Good exterior lighting is important, particularly when the yard area is obscured by high, non-removable shrubbery. The best possible location for outside lights is under the eaves. This makes ground-level assault more difficult. You may buy an inexpensive timer or photo-electric cell which will automatically turn the lights on at dusk and turn them off at dawn.

Lee Porter an author and entrepreneur for HealthSufficiency, a continuing health, personal development and life dynamic education and business development company helping people to be meet their potential to lead healthy, prosperous and successful lives.

Tags: vehicle protection, car, bicycles, motorcycles, bicycle lock, exterior lighting, theft, anti-theft, security, vehicles, padlock, theft deterrent,

Today, with the average consumer now spending up to $16,400 for a new car, consumers realize the importance on investing in lower priced used cars. With millions of buyers entering the used vehicle market every year, a wealth of opportunities exist for anyone looking for extra income, or a new and lucrative full-time career. They key to making a lot of money in this business is to buy low, and sell at a huge profit. This report will show you how to get started down the road to riches as a used car dealers.

Operating your own used car business

The goal of many people is just to make a little extra income. If you consider $1,000 to $3,000 or more for a single sale in one month to be “extra income” you could easily make that in your spare time without much effort.

On the other hand, you may be one of those people who want to be their own boss. While it’s true that the risks are often greater than if you just worked for someone else, it’s just as true that risks and rewards go hand in hand. If you’re willing to take the plunge, the potential returns are also greater. If you have a bit of the adventuresome spirit and some confidence in your own skills and abilties, operating your own used car business may be the ideal way for you to make big, big money!

Advantages of owning your own business

The opportunity to express your own ideas and do things exactly as you want is among the primary advantages of operating your own business. The challenge and excitement of running your own operation also ranks high on the list. Another big advantage is that you will receive all the profits generated by your time and efforts. The potential exists to develop a part-time business into a full-time career that produces an income you never thought possible.

Skills and abilities needed

The same type of personal skills that are necessary to successfully work for someone else are also required to be successful in working for yourself. Personal skills involve being conscientious, dedicated, determined and persistent. Good human relation skills are also important.

There is also another type of skill that is necessary: It involves the ability to manage and organize your activities and possibly those of others if you hire salespeople to work for you. This skill should be taken very seriously because it organizational ability that can make the difference between huge success and total failure.

Finally, you will need technical skills. These are the skills that include the knowledge to perform activities involved in the used car business. It is this combination of technical, personal and management skills that will make your operation successful.

Getting your used car business established

Whether you are operating your business on a part-time or full-time basis, people will expect you to provide the type of service any consumer expects. They will also associate the type of service they can expect with the image you create for your business. This image will be the impression you make on others.

For example: Will people perceive you as handling high-medium,or low-priced vehicles? Will your used cars appeal mostly to the rich, the poor, or the middle class? Do you sell something for everyone or do you specialize? (Just pick-ups, just vans, etc.)

Any positive image is fine as long as you are consistent in everything you do within the scope of that image. The image you create will largely set the tone for all your business activities, including selection of a business location, types of vehicles handled, prices charged, etc.

Selecting a location

If you are going to buy one or two cars at a time for resale on a part-time basis, then working right from your home shouldn’t pose a problem for you. However, if you intend to eventually have a large, full-time business operation, the most important ingredient in your success or failure could be your location. What constitutes a good location varies with the type of business. But in the used car business it means being highly visible in a high traffic area, and being situated so that driving customers can get to you. In many cases, the location you consider ideal may not be available, or if it is, the cost may not be practical. In that event, you will simply have to select the next best location you can find and that is affordable. Then you will have to male a strong advertising and promotion work to make customers aware of who you are, and what you are selling, and where they can find you.

Whether you select a location at your home or in a business district, you must make certain you are operating within city and county zoning ordinances. Zoning ordinances are regulations specifying what each parcel of land within a community can be used for. In the location you decide on is not zoned for the type of business you want to start, yo can appeal to the zoning commission to obtain a “zoning variance.” If approved, you would be allowed to use the property for your business.

How to locate used car supplies

To get started in the “Buy low, Sell for Huge Profits” used car business, you will have to locate suppliers. In some cases you will be able to buy directly from individual car owners. At other times, you will go to independent auction houses or attend U.S. Government Auction Sales where you can often purchase vehicles for pennies on the dollar.

An independent auction houses vehicles owners who have auctioneers sell their vehicle by getting buyers who are at the auction house to bid against one another. Generally, there is a minimum bid set. The person who offers the highest bid over the minimum set has the winning bid. The seller, however, also has the right to sell the vehicle below the minimum bid if he chooses. Incredible bargains can be found at independent auction houses.

Independent auction house sales take place throughout the U.S.A., many on a weekly schedule. For additional information on auction house locations refer to your telephone directory under “Auctions” or “Car Auctions,” write to:

National Auto Research
P.O. Box 758
Gainsville, GA 30503
(404) 532-4111
(800) 554-1026 (Except Georgia)

N.A.D.A. Used Car Guide Co.
8400 Westpark Drive
McLean, VA 22102-9985
(703) 821-7193
(800) 544-6232
(800) 523-3110 (in Virginia)

U.S. Government Auctions

A wide variety of personal property either no longer needed, or seized by the Federal Government is periodically placed on public sale.

The Department of Defense and the General Services Administration are the principle government sales outlets for surplus property. As items become available for public sale. catalogs and other types of announcements are distributed to people who have expressed an interest in bidding on the types of property being offered.

Sales generally are on a competitive bid basis, with the property being sold to the highest bidder. Among the many thousands of items sold are automobiles and other vehicles of every imaginable make and model. In fact, tens of thousands of vehicles are sold by the government at public auctions throughout the country every year.

How can there be so many vehicles for sale? Because the government is so huge that it’s difficult to even comprehend just how much property is amassed for resale. In fact, the government seizes, confiscates and forecloses on property that results in many millions of pieces of property every year, and that number continues to grow.

Incredibly, the government isn’t a private business that is interested in making a profit on the items it sells. The government is mostly interested in eliminating enormous stockpiles of seized and surplus vehicles and other properties. As a result, many thousands of vehicles are offered to the public through government auctions at a fraction of their actual value. This is where you can buy just about any modelof vehicle you want at super-huge savings and make gigantic resale profits.

How to Get on the Government’s Vehicle Auction Mailing List

Both the Government Services Administration (GSA) and the Department of Defense maintain mailing lists on persons interested in seized and surplus property sales. People on these lists are sent catalogs and other sales annoucements in advance of sales and give the opportunity to inspect the vehicles and submit bids.

Each GSA regional office maintains a mailing list for sales of property located in the geographical area it serves. For generl information about sales conducted by GSA, or to be placed on the mailing list, write to any of the follwig addresses.

The Department of Defense maintains a centralized mailing list for the sales of its property located in the United States. The Defense Surplus Bidders Control Office, Defense Logisitics Service Center, Battle Creek, Michigan 49016 maintains this list.

GSA Customer Service Bureaus

National Capital region

GSA Customer Service Bureau
7th and D Streets, SW
Washington, DC 20407

Serves: District of Columbia, nearby Maryland, Virginia.

Region 1

GSA Customer Service Bureau
Post Office & Courthouse
Boston, MA 02109

Serves: Connecticut, Maine, Massachusetts, New Hampshire, RHode Island,
Vermont.

Region 2

GSA Customer Service Bureau
26 Federal Plaza
New York, NY 10278

Serves: Ne Jersey, New York, Puerto Rico, Virgin Islands

Region 3

GSA Customer Service Bureau
Ninth and Markt Streets
Philadelhia, PA 19107

Serves: Delaware, Pennsylvania, Maryland, Virgina, West Virginia

Region 4

GSA Customer Service Bureau
75 Spring St., SW
Atlanta, GA 30303

Serves: Alabama, Florida, Georgia, Kentucky, Mississippi, North Carolina,
South Carolina, Tennessee

Region 5

GSA Customer Service Bureau
230 S. Dearborn St.
Chicago, IL 60604

Serves: Illinois, Michigan, Minnesota, Ohio, Wisconsin

Region 6

GSA Customer Service Bureau
1500 E. Bannister Road
Kansas City, MO 64131

Serves: Iowa, Kansas, Missouri, Nebraska

Region 7

GSA Customer Service Bureau
819 Taylor Street
Forth Worth, TX 76102

Serves: Arkansas, Louisiana, New Mexico, Oklahoma, Texas

Region 8

GSA Customer Service Bureau
Bldg. 42-Denver Federal Center
Denver, CO 80225

Serves: Colorado, Montana, North Dakota, South Dakota, Utah, Wyoming

Region 9

GSA Customer Service Bureau
525 Market Street
San Francisco, CA 94105

Serves: Samoa, Arizona, California, Guam, Hawaii, Nevada

Region 10

GSA Customer Services Bureau
Auburn, WA 98002

Serves: Alaska, Idaho, Oregon, Washington

How to Determine the Value of Used Vehicles

Whether you attend and auction or purchase a vehicle outright from a seller, you must know what it is worth. The best way to determine a vehicle’s average market- trade-in or wholesale value, average loan or average retail value is to subscribe to N.A.D.A. Official Used Car Guide, published monthly by the National Automobile Dealer’s Used Car Guide Co., 8400 Westpark Drive, McLean, VA 22102-9985. Write for current subscription rates.

N.A.D.A. also publishes guides as follows: Official Older Used Car Guide … Official Used Car Trade-In Guide … Official Title & Registration Book … Official Recreation Vehicle Guide … Official Motorcycle/Snowmobile/ATV Personal Watercraft Appraisal Guide … Smaller Boat Appraisal Guide … Official Larger Boat Appraisal Guide … Official Mobile Home Appraisal Guide and Mobile Home Appraisal System.

A weekly used car market guide is also available from: National Auto Research, P.O. Box 758, Gainsville, GA 30503. Write for current
subscription rates.

Regional Classifications

The average values listed in the N.A.D.A. Official Used Car Guide are based upon reports of actual transactions by dealers and auction houses throughout each area for which a guide is published. A used car guide-book normally includes (1) Domestic Cars (2) Imported Cars and (3) Trucks. Manufacturer’s names are listed alphabetically.

Securing Licenses and Permits

City, county, state and/or federal licenses or permits are often required before entering a particular business or service operation. Often these are issued solely as a fund-raising measure, and therefore, are easy to obtain by submitting a fee.

On the other hand, licensing is also used as a method of regulating the competency of those entering a particular field and to protect the public from shady operators. In some cases an exam is administered, and moral and financial requirements may need to be met as well.

In the used-car business, most states require that you obtain a dealer’s license if you are buying and selling vehicles for the purpose of making a profit. However, you are not required to apply for a license if you only make an isolated or occasional sale. You are not considered to be in the business of selling motor vehicles in that event. “Isolated or occasional sales” in many states means the sale, purchase, or lease of not more than five motor vehicles in a 12-month period.

Once you began to sell more vehicles for profit that is allowed by your state law on an annual basis, you should apply for a Dealer’s License by contacting your state department of public safety of department of motor vehicle.

Check with your attorney or other city officials to determine what licences and permits are needed. Simply start up a business without having the proper authorizations can result in severe penalties, and you could be forced to discontinue operations.

Many states and some cities and counties require that sales taxes be collected. The state sales tax permit is available from the State
Department of Revenue. City and county permits are available from the tax department in those jurisdictions.

Even though a certain amount of “red-tape” must be tolerated to obtain some licenses and permits, this is usually a one-time occurrence. Then, it’s just a matter of submitting an annual renewal fee.

Lee Porter an author and entrepreneur for HealthSufficiency, a continuing health, personal development and life dynamic education and business development company helping people to be meet their potential to lead healthy, prosperous and successful lives.

Tags: cardealership, used cars, buying cars, selling cars, business opportunity, small business, income generation, extra income,

The secret for getting oil for your car either absolutely free, or at pennies per gallon, is to realize that oil does not wear out, it just gets dirty! If you remove the dirt and other particles from the oil it will be like new.

How to make old oil like new:

Boil 4 gallons of old oil.

Add 1 pint of liquid silicate of soda.

Stir for 10 minutes then let it settle until the oil is clear.

Remove the oil from the top. (Sediment and sludge will be at the bottom – avoid tipping the container to such an extent as to stir up the sediment.)

How to get old oil – Free.

Go to the local filling stations, and quick oil change locations, and ask for their old oil. Usually you can have it for hauling it away.

If you plan to sell the oil to others, offer to pay the station owner or manager 5 cents a gallon for the oil.
Furnish them with a steel drum to put the oil in. This will assure you of a steady supply.

Expanding your business:

Write to Hillyard Corp., 98 W. 4th Street, Elmire, NY for information regarding their automatic equipment that reclaims oil if you decide to develop your business on a larger scale. You may even consider renting garage space (there are lots of abandoned gas stations these days) and specialize in oil changes for a buck or two under the going oil change rates that are being charged locally. With oil prices continually increasing, it won’t take long for you to build a fantastic business.

Lee Porter an author and entrepreneur for HealthSufficiency, a continuing health, personal development and life dynamic education and business development company helping people to be meet their potential to lead healthy, prosperous and successful lives.

Tags: car care, motor bike care, motor care, oil change, engine oil, liquid silicate of soda, income generation, small business opportunity, oil change

Do you have a truck, motorbike, van or even a small trailer, that you can use to deliver messages or make light deliveries. Contract with stores and businesses to deliver their messages and or packages on a retainer plus trip basis, such as $50 per month or year retainer and $10 per delivery (within the city) or 80 cents per mile. (Adjust to rising fuel costs of course!)

Many businesses either have a need to deliver or have customers who need delivery service. Examples are merchandise for handicapped or elderly people, phone-in orders and catalog store deliveries of merchandise that comes in several days after it is ordered.

Maintaining a delivery service can be very expensive for local merchants. They must have a truck, commercial insurance, pay and insure a driver — expenses that may be out of the question for a small business.

This is why some would be happy to contract or refer delivery chores. Even businesses that have their own services can never predict how busy they might be at any particular time and may need help with backlogs, especially during high sales seasons.

People who buy a new vacuum today do not want to wait a week to have it delivered — some will even cancel the order if it is not delivered on time!

Deliveries are not limited to merchandise; they can be packages of important papers, picking up items for shipment or going after a part for a mechanic.

Your delivery business can be oriented to retail or wholesale customers, or even both. Retail is the most profitable, but it is less dependable and may not support a good business by itself.

For retail business, keep an ad in the paper and make sure you have good signs on your truck that display your company name, service and how to reach you. Some of your most effective advertising is when people see you performing your service and note your name and phone number. They then associate need (theirs) with the solution (you).

If there are other delivery services in your area, you might call find one that will agree to reciprocal back up — you call him when you need assistance and vice-versa.

Be prepared to enter into wholesale agreements, where your services may be need on an irregular basis… The contract may be for a set schedule, or it can be for up to a certain mileage and/ or number or calls per week or month. The agreement should state what you get for deliveries, mileage or hours over and above that called for in the contract.

You might also agree to display the client’s sign (magnetic signs are good for this purpose) when making deliveries to his customers – and, you should assure your clients that you will represent their interests professionally on their behalf.

When you deliver for Smith Drug Store display their sign, you Are Smith Drug Store as far as the customer is concerned.

A variation of the above plan is to have a referral agreement with the stores. When customers need something delivered, the store recommends (and even calls) you. The main difference with this alternative is that you are working for the customer, not the store.

The customer pays you. You are responsible for the item being delivered while in your possession.

This variation works nicely with a retail delivery business and requires the same type of insurance. With this arrangement the store could hire you to pick up things for them too (as a retail customer), but you can give them a discount for volume of trips.

The delivery service business needs advertising to make every potential customer knows who you are, what you do, and how to find you.

Put signs on your truck, notices on bulletin boards (the supermarket is great for this), keep a small ad in the local paper, and if you can afford it, a listing in the yellow pages.

Have some business cards printed and leave them with every business or potential customer you can. If you can’t afford business cards, get a rubber stamp and make your own (use the same stamp to “imprint” your receipts).

Print copies of your rates where you can. Call on businesses in the area and ask them to try your services. Inform the Chamber of Commerce, banks, real estate offices and the bus station (many packages come in there and some may need transportation) of your services. Leave your name and number with travel agencies, depots and furniture stores.

Messenger Service

This is closely allied with delivery service but is a little more complicated. Messages and small packages (often of very important papers) that are sent by messenger are almost always expensive or urgent (or both). They can be deed that is needed to transact an important real estate deal, a note that is being paid off, a package of valuable bonds that are being traded, or an affidavit that must be signed immediately and gotten back to the broker.

A messenger service generally requires more speed, accessibility, reliability (human and vehicle than a delivery service.

In a smaller town environment , it should be sufficient to have a beeper system, where the office can alert messengers in the field to call response time.

A defense lawyer in court may not be able to wait 30 minutes for a messenger on an errand to call in. In the larger cities a radio telephone will become a must in order to compete with the “big boys.”

In preparing for your messenger service, plans can be made to “get by” until the business is established, but long range plans should include a system to provide almost instant response in order to be the best service in town.

As mentioned above, messengers frequently are called upon to handle not only important packages, but also expensive ones–as in the case of negotiable bonds, and partially completed documents concerning ownership.

Each messenger should be bonded — not only to deter theft, but to ensure potential customers that their important papers and valuables will be handled only by bonded personnel — a major pint with some organizations.

Bonding can be obtained through most any insurance agency and is usually not very expensive.

Another important consideration is scheduling and the establishment of priority procedures.. The messenger must know which deliveries (or pickups) take priority over others — and that you, as a company must be able to explain this policy to customers.

If a delivery is delayed, the customer whose package is late has much right to know the reason as the one who gets priority treatment. The easiest way to solve this dilemma is to establish your rates based on priority (it is also the most profitable solution).

For example, you might charge $15 to pick up and deliver a package up to 2 pounds that day; $17.50 to do it before noon, and $20 to “drop everything” and do it now.

Remember, however, that the $5 jobs still have to be done the same day — they cannot be postponed without serious damage to your reputation. If you ever have to do that, be sure and inform your clients in advance! Remember the old, but same advice: Surprise people with good news, not bad.

There are distinct similarities in delivery and messenger services, and there is no doubt that the two could be combined in the less populated area where there is not much competition.

A new business could also provide both types of service initially, and then “gravitate” towards whichever seems to be the best. In either case, it is necessary to build a reputation for honesty and dependability.

The biggest chance for major problem in either would be an accident (or incident) that was not adequately insured. If you have the necessary insurance, do a good job and advertise your service well, you have an excellent chance of building your service into a very rewarding business.

Lee Porter an author and entrepreneur for HealthSufficiency, a continuing health, personal development and life dynamic education and business development company helping people to be meet their potential to lead healthy, prosperous and successful lives

Tags: business opportunity, small business opportunity, income generation, delivery service, messenger service, cars, trucks, motor bicycle, bicycle, tricycle,

Make every effort to know and comply with basic traffic laws. Get a copy of the driver’s license manual from your state licensing authority and review its contents.

Don’t attract attention to your vehicle by having loud exhaust, windows tinted too dark, etc. Anything that causes a police officer to look at your vehicle will make it more likely he will notice expired tags or inspection sticker, or other deficiency.

If your state has a mandatory seatbelt law; wear your seatbelt. If you forget to put it on, don’t wait until you see a police officer to remember to put it on. This will only cause the officer to notice you when he might not have otherwise. The fact that you just put it on may not be enough to avoid a citation. If he spots you without it on or sees you putting it on, you can be cited. You might only get a warning for having put it on, but this is a gamble. If the officer is working a special seatbelt detail you can count on a ticket. Don’t Call Attention to Yourself!

Keep your vehicle in good condition, and all equipment such as brakes, lights, etc. in working order. Burned out headlights or tail lights just can’t be missed at night. Remember; once the officer has you stopped he can find other things to talk to you about like the driver’s license you left at home, or the insurance card you can’t find, etc.

Make a complete stop at stop signs. Your state may require you to stop at a line or at a point, before entering the intersection, where you can clearly see traffic. Either way, you must stop. Make sure the intersection is clear before starting out. Accidents at intersections with stop signs are “bought and paid for” by the driver having the stop sign. This is true even if you stop.

Be prepared to stop at yield signs if necessary. Unless you can clearly see traffic, and know no vehicles are coming, treat the yield sign like a stop sign.

Do not drive faster than the flow of traffic unless that flow is below the speed limit. Passing other vehicles always draws attention. It may appear momentarily that you are speeding, even if you aren’t. The police officer may quickly realize that you’re not speeding just about the same time he notices you’re not wearing your seatbelt, your inspection sticker has expired, etc., etc., etc. By now you should be getting the idea: Don’t Call Attention to Yourself!

If you are stopped for a traffic violation, try to prevent or at least minimize the damage. An officer may be assigned to a certain location to watch for a certain violation due to numerous accidents at that location. If you commit the violation in question at that location your chances of getting out of a ticket are slim. A short argument of the facts is okay, but don’t get carried away. This is especially true if have other deficiencies you don’t want noticed. Consider this: if you’ve committed a violation, the officer is supposed to write you a ticket. Depending on the circumstances, however, you may get a verbal or written warning. If you jump out of the car with verbal abuse, you will always get a ticket.

Don’t rely too much on your radar detector. If you’re the only car on the road for a long stretch, or you’re the first car in a convoy of vehicles, you’re going to be the target vehicle for the radar unit over the next hill. The officer is not going to let the “cat” out of the bag and leave the radar on continuously for you to “detect”. He’ll have it in the “stand-by” mode. It’s warmed up, calibrated, and ready to go, but it’s not emitting a signal. He won’t activate it till you come over the hill. Your radar detector will beep at the same time the radar automatically locks your speed on the digital display. Anyone within a mile or so behind you with a detector will be warned, but not you! Sometimes officers will leave the unit on and transmitting, knowing that there are plenty of non-detector equipped speeders to be caught, but don’t count on this.

General Tips
1. Don’t get noticed!

2. Watch your speed!

3. Make complete stops at stop signs.

4. Keep lights in good repair.

5. Carry all required documents: Driver’s license, title, registration, insurance.

6. Don’t have loud mufflers.

7. Don’t have windows tinted too dark.

8. Don’t carry oversized loads.

9. Don’t overload vehicle with passengers, especially the front seat.

10. Don’t throw things from the vehicle.

11. Don’t give the officer a hard time for doing his job.

12. If you think you been “locked-on” by radar, slow down. It may not help, but it won’t hurt either.

13. Police officers can spot expired inspection stickers, license plates, and other deficiencies from a great distance!

Lee Porter an author and entrepreneur for HealthSufficiency, a continuing health, personal development and life dynamic education and business development company helping people to be meet their potential to lead healthy, prosperous and successful lives

Tags: driving, traffic tickets, cars, safety

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Speed is a major factor in many accidents. Driving too fast for condition of the road, weather, vehicle or driver increases your chances of having an accident. Reduce speed during adverse weather conditions. Rain, ice, sleet, snow and otherwise poor road surfaces can increase your stopping distance dramatically. Add worn tires or brakes to this and the distance increases further. Poor driving skills on top of these other factors can make the situation almost impossible. Keep your vehicle in good condition. Worn tires and brakes can decrease your ability to control the vehicle under emergency stopping and turning situations. Replace windshield wipers regularly and keep the windshield washer full and in operating condition. Dirty or muddy water splashed onto your window can cause a “blackout” for several seconds while you locate and activate the washer. Be familiar with its location and operation so that you may use it quickly and without taking your eyes off the road.

Wear your seatbelt. It will hold you in place during violent maneuvers. You might do an excellent job of recognizing a hazard suddenly appearing in front of you, realize there’s no time to stop, make an abrupt turn to the left, and then find yourself thrown all the way to the passenger side of the vehicle. What do you do then? You brace yourself for the accident your going to cause trying to avoid the first one! There are many other sudden happenings that can cause you to thrown around inside of the vehicle, and once that happens you’re no longer in control. You become just another passenger along for the ride. Speaking of passengers; buckle them down too. Flying passengers can injure or kill you as well as themselves. Get a physicist to compute for you the effective weight of your 175 pound passenger when he hits you in a 30 MPH crash! It’ll scare you!

Stay away from other vehicles! That may sound silly, but most accidents involve two or more vehicles. Try not to be near those who are looking for a place to wreck! Don’t tailgate and don’t allow others to tailgate you. If traffic conditions are light (you LA folks won’t understand this) try not to drive beside other vehicles. They’ll always swerve right into you when they try to dodge that dog or cat in the road! If a vehicle next to you is struck by another vehicle, he could be pushed into you. If you’re not in “downtown” traffic, and can do so, spread out. (I know you LA people are saying “what planet is this guy from?”) Intersections are the favorite meeting places for cars and drivers looking for a place to crash. Always check cross traffic before starting out on a green light. Someone is always trying to get the last part of that yellow light.

Stay away from 18-wheelers at all times. Always avoid being on the right side of one, especially near places where the truck driver might want to make a right turn. Large tractor-trailer rigs must, by the nature of their size, make wide right turns. That is, they cannot make a right turn from the right lane like smaller vehicles. This maneuver may give the appearance of an open lane available for use by an unsuspecting person not seeing the truck’s turn signal. Many a car and driver has been crushed by the trailer and wheels of those large rigs. Another hazard of those big trucks is retread tires coming apart on the highway. Have you ever been beside one of those big rigs when an old retreaded tire decides to blow? It’ll get your attention fast! It can cause some drivers to change lanes or slow abruptly. If you’re on a motorcycle you could be seriously injured if you are close behind or beside on of these rigs when a tire blows. We’ve all seen those tire remnants scattered about the highway so be aware that it happens quite often.

All vehicles come from the factory with “blind spots” installed free of charge. Know where yours are and always check them before making a lane change. Remember; you can’t check them with mirrors. That’s why they’re called blind spots. You’ll have to turn around and actually look. Don’t ride in the blind spots of other vehicle. You’re just asking for trouble if you do. Parking lots are one of the best places to find a fender bender. They’re a good place to have your head on a swivel. Vehicles seem to come out of nowhere in a mall parking lot and you’ll have to be constantly looking left and right if you want to stay out of trouble.

Lee Porter an author and entrepreneur for HealthSufficiency, a continuing health, personal development and life dynamic education and business development company helping people to be meet their potential to lead healthy, prosperous and successful lives

Tags: driving, cars, traffic accidents, safety

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This year, more than 16 million Americans will buy a used car. Considering that number is eclipsed by China, worldwide that number could be close to 50 million or so. If that’s what you are planning, this guide may help you.

It explains your protections under the USA’s FTC’s Used Car Rule and offers some shopping suggestions, even if you are not buying from a used car dealer.

Before you begin looking at used cars, think about what car models and options you want and how much you are able or willing to spend. You can learn about car models, options, and prices by reading newspaper ads, both display and classified. Also, your local library and book stores have magazines that discuss and compare car models, options, and costs, as well as provide information about frequency-of-repair records, safety tests, and mileage. The U.S. Department of Transportation Auto Safety Hotline (800-424-9393) will tell you if a car model has ever been recalled and send you information about that recall.

Before You Look For a Used Car, Consider

Costs. Remember, the real cost of a car includes more than the purchase price: it includes loan terms, such as interest rates and the length of the loan. If you plan to finance the car, you need to know how much money you can put down and how much you can pay monthly. Dealers and lending institutions offer a variety of interest rates and payment schedules, so you will want to shop for terms. If, for example, you need low monthly payments, consider making a large down payment or getting financing that will stretch your payments over five years, rather than the usual three. Of course, this longer payment period means paying more interest and a higher total cost.

Reliability. You can learn how reliable a model is by checking in publications for the frequency-of-repair records. Find out what models have repair facilities in a location convenient to you and if parts are readily available at the repair facility.

Dealer Reputation. Find out from experienced people whose opinions you respect which dealers in your area have good reputations for sales and service. You may wish to call your local consumer protection office and the Better Business Bureau to find out if they have any complaints against particular dealers.

If You Buy a Used Car From a Dealer

If you go to a dealer for a used car, look for a “Buyers Guide” sticker on the window of each car. The Buyers Guide, required by the Federal Trade Commission’s Used Car Rule, gives you important information and suggestions to consider. The Buyers Guide tells you:

? Whether the vehicle comes with a warranty and, if so, what specific protection the dealer will provide;
? Whether the vehicle comes with no warranty (“as is”) or with implied warranties only;
? That you should ask to have the car inspected by an independent mechanic before you buy;
? That you should get all promises in writing; and
? What some of the major problems are that may occur in any car.

The Used Car Rule requires dealers to post the Buyers Guide on all used vehicles, including automobiles, light-duty vans, and light-duty trucks. “Demonstrator” cars also must have Buyers Guides. But Buyers Guides do not have to be posted on motorcycles and most recreational vehicles. Individuals selling fewer than six cars a year are not required to post Buyers Guides.

Whenever you purchase a used car from a dealer, you should receive the original or an identical copy of the Buyers Guide that appeared in the window of the vehicle you bought. The Buyers Guide must reflect any changes in warranty coverage that you may have negotiated with the dealer. It also becomes a part of your sales contract and overrides any contrary provisions that may be in that contract.

As you read this brochure, you can refer to the Buyers Guide, shown on pages 6 through 8.

“As Is–No Warranty”

About one-half of all used cars sold by dealers come “as is,” which means there is no express or implied warranty. If you buy a car “as is” and have problems with it, you must pay for any repairs yourself. When the dealer offers a vehicle for sale “as is,” the box next to the “As Is–No Warranty” disclosure on the Buyers Guide will be checked. If this box is checked but the dealer makes oral promises to repair the vehicle, have the dealer put those promises in writing on the Buyers Guide.

Some states (Connecticut, Kansas, Maine, Maryland, Massachusetts, Minnesota, Mississippi, New York, Rhode Island, Vermont, West Virginia and the District of Columbia) do not permit “as is” sales for most or all used motor vehicles.

“Implied Warranties Only”

Implied warranties exist under all state laws and come with almost every purchase from a used car dealer, unless the dealer tells you in writing that implied warranties do not apply. Usually, dealers use the words “as is” or “with all faults” to disclaim implied warranties. Most states require the use of specific words.

“If the dealer makes oral promises, have the dealer put those promises in writing.”

The “warranty of merchantability” is the most common type of implied warranty. This means that the seller promises that the product will do what it is supposed to do. For example, a car will run, a toaster will toast.

Another type of implied warranty is the “warranty of fitness for a particular purpose.” This applies when you buy a vehicle on the dealer’s advice that it is suitable for a particular use. For example, a dealer who suggests that you buy a specific vehicle for hauling a trailer warrants, in effect, that the vehicle will be suitable for hauling a trailer.

If you buy a vehicle with a written warranty, but problems arise that the warranty does not cover, you may still be protected by implied warranties. Any limitation on the duration of implied warranties must appear on the written warranty.

In those states that do not permit “as is” sales by dealers, or if the dealer offers a vehicle with only implied warranties, a disclosure entitled “Implied Warranties Only” will be printed on the Buyers Guide in place of the “As Is” disclosure. The box next to this disclosure would be checked if the dealer chooses to sell the car with implied warranties and no written warranty. A copy of the Buyers Guide with the “Implied Warranties Only” disclosure is shown on page 7.

Dealer Warranties

When dealers offer a written warranty on a used vehicle, they must fill in the warranty portion of the Buyers Guide. Because the terms and conditions of written warranties can vary widely, you may find it useful to compare warranty terms on cars or negotiate warranty coverage.

Dealers may offer a full or limited warranty on all or some of the systems or components of the vehicle. A “full” warranty provides the following terms and conditions:

? Warranty service will be provided to anyone who owns the vehicle during the warranty period when a problem is reported.

? Warranty service will be provided free of charge, including such costs as returning the vehicle or removing and reinstalling a system covered by the warranty, when necessary.

? At your choice, the dealer will provide either a replacement or a full refund if the dealer is unable, after a reasonable number of tries, to repair the vehicle or a system covered by the warranty.

? Warranty service is provided without requiring you to perform any reasonable duty as a precondition for receiving service, except notifying the dealer that service is needed.

? No limit is placed on the duration of implied warranties.

If any one of the above statements is not true, then the warranty is “limited.” A “full” or “limited” warranty need not cover the entire vehicle. The dealer may specify only certain systems for coverage under a warranty. Most used car warranties are “limited,” which usually means you will have to pay some of the repair costs. By giving a “limited” warranty, the dealer is telling you that there are some costs or responsibilities that the dealer will not assume for systems covered by the warranty.

If the dealer offers a full or limited warranty, the dealer must provide the following information in the “Warranty” section of the Buyers Guide:

? The percentage of the repair cost that the dealer will pay. For example, “the dealer will pay 100% of the labor and 100% of the parts….”;

? The specific parts and systems, such as the frame, body, or brake system that are covered by the warranty. The back of the Buyers Guide contains a list of descriptive names for the major systems of an automobile where problems may occur;

? The duration of the warranty for each covered system. For example, “30 days or 1,000 miles, whichever occurs first”; and

? Whether a deductible applies.

Under another federal law, the Magnuson-Moss Warranty Act, you have a right to see a copy of the dealer’s warranty before a purchase. Examine the warranty carefully before you buy to see what is covered and what is not. It contains more detailed information than the Buyers Guide, such as a step-by-step explanation of hoax to obtain repairs if a covered system or component malfunctions. Also check who is legally responsible for fulfilling the terms of the warranty. If a third party is responsible, the best way to avoid potential problems is to make sure that the third party is reputable and insured. You can do this by asking the company for the name of their insurer and then checking its performance record with your local Better Business Bureau.

Unexpired Manufacturer’s Warranties

If the used vehicle is still covered by the manufacturer’s original warranty, the dealer may include it in the “systems covered/duration” section of the Buyers Guide. This does not necessarily mean that the. dealer offers a warranty in addition to the manufacturer’s. In some cases, a manufacturer’s original warranty can be transferred to a second owner only upon payment of a fee. If you have any questions, ask the dealer to let you examine any unexpired warranty on the vehicle.

Service Contracts

When you buy a car, you may be offered a service contract, which you can buy for an extra cost. In deciding whether you want a service contract, consider:

? Whether the warranty that comes with your car already covers the same repairs that you would get under the service contract or whether the service contract protection begins after the warranty runs out. Does the service contract extend longer than the time you expect to own the car? If so, is the service contract transferable or is a shorter contract available?

? Whether the vehicle is likely to need repairs and their potential costs. The value of a service contract is determined by whether the cost of repairs is likely to be greater than the price you pay for the service contract protection.

? Whether the service contract covers all parts and systems of the car. Check out all claims carefully. Claims that coverage is “bumper to bumper” may not be entirely accurate.

? Whether there is a deductible required, and, if so, consider the amount and terms of the deductible.

? Whether the contract covers incidental expenses, such as towing and the costs of a rental car while your car is being serviced.

? Whether repairs and routine maintenance, such as oil changes, can be performed at locations other than the dealership from which you purchased the contract.

? Whether there is a cancellation and refund policy for the service contract, and what the costs are if you cancel.

? Whether the dealer or company offering the service contract is reputable. Read the contract carefully to determine who is legally responsible for fulfilling the terms of the contract. Some dealers sell service contracts that are backed by a third party. If a third party isresponsible, you may wish to ask if the company is insured and to check the company’s performance with your local Better Business Bureau.

If a service contract is offered, the dealer must mark the box provided on the Buyers Guide, except in those states that regulate service contracts under their insurance laws. If the Buyers Guide does not include a reference to a service contract, and you are interested, ask the salesperson whether one is available.

When you purchase a service contract from the dealer within 90 days of buying the vehicle, federal law prohibits the dealer from disclaiming implied warranties on the systems covered in that service contract. For example, if you buy a car “as is,” the car normally will not be covered by implied warranties.

But if you buy a service contract covering the engine, you automatically get implied warranties on the engine, which may give you protection beyond the scope of the service contract. Make sure you receive a written confirmation that your servicecontract is in effect.

Spoken Promises

The Buyers Guide warns consumers not to rely on spoken promises. Oral promises are difficult, if not impossible, to enforce. Make sure all promises you want are written into the Buyers Guide and keep it.

Pre-Purchase Independent Inspection

The Buyers Guide also suggests you ask the dealer whether you may have the vehicle inspected by your own mechanic. Some dealers will let you take the car off the lot to get an independent inspection. Others may have reasons, such as insurance restrictions, for denying this request. In such a case, the dealer may permit you to bring an independent mechanic to the used car on the lot. A dealer who refuses to allow any independent inspection may be telling you something about the condition of the car.

Remember, a good-looking car, or a car that comes with a warranty, does not necessarily run well. An independent inspection lets you find out about the mechanical condition of the vehicle before you buy it. Although an inspection fee by a mechanic may seem high, when you compare it to the price of the car, it can be worth the cost.

Vehicle Systems
The Buyers Guide includes a list of the 14 major systems of an automobile and some of the major problems that may occur in these systems. You may find this list helpful to evaluate the mechanical condition of the vehicle. The list also may be useful when comparing warranties offered on different cars or by different dealers.

Dealer Identification and Consumer Complaint Information

On the back of the Buyers Guide, you will find the name and address of the dealership. In the space below that, you will find the name and telephone number of the person at the dealership to contact if you have any complaints after the sale.

Spanish Language Sales

If you buy a used car and the sales talk is conducted in Spanish, you are entitled to see and keep a Spanish-language version of the Buyers Guide.

If You Buy a Used Car From a Private Party

Many cars are available privately, such as through classified ads in a newspaper. If you are shopping for a car from an individual, you should understand several differences between sales made by individuals and by dealers.

? Private sellers generally are not covered by the Used Car Rule and therefore, do not have to use the Buyers Guide.However, you still can follow the Guide’s suggestions. For example, you can refer to the list of potential problems displayed on the back of the Buyers Guide shown in this brochure. In addition, ask the seller whether you may have the vehicle inspected by your own mechanic and whether you may take it on a test drive.

? Private sales usually are not covered by the “implied warranties” of state law. So, a private sale probably will be on an “as is” basis, unless your contract with the seller specifically provides otherwise. If you have a written contract, the seller must live up to the promisesstated in the contract.

“An independent inspection lets you find out about the mechanical condition of the vehicle before you buy it.”

? Depending on its age, the car also may be covered by a manufacturer’s warranty or a separately purchased service contract. However, warranties and service contracts may not be transferable, or there may be limitations or costs for a transfer. Before you purchase the car, ask the seller to let you examine any warranty or service contract on the vehicle.

? Many states require that dealers, but not individuals, ensure that their vehicles will pass state inspection or carry a minimum warranty before they offer them for sale. Ask your state’s attorney general’s office or a local consumer protection office about the requirements on individuals and on dealers in your state.

Before You Buy Any Used Car

If you are interested in a particular car, ask the dealer or owner if you can take it on a test drive. Try to drive the car under many different conditions, such as on hills, highways, and in stop-and-go traffic.

You also may want to ask the dealer or owner whether the car has ever been in an accident. Find out as much as you can about the car’s prior history and maintenance record. Getting an independent inspection by an experienced mechanic is a good idea before purchasing any used car.

Be prepared to negotiate. Many dealers and individuals are willing to bargain on price and/or on warranty coverage.

If You Have Problems

If something goes wrong with your car and you think that it is covered by a warranty (either express or implied) or a service contract, refer to the terms of the warranty or contract for instructions on how to get service. If a dispute arises concerning the problem, there are several steps you can take.

Try To Work It Out With The Dealer

First, try to resolve the problem with the salesperson or, if necessary, speak with the owner of the dealership. Many problems can be resolved at this level. However, if you believe that you are entitled to service, but the dealer disagrees, you can take other steps.

If your warranty is backed by a car manufacturer and you have a dispute about either service or coverage, contact the local representative of the manufacturer. This local or “zone” representative has the authority to adjust and make decisions about warranty service and repairs to satisfy customers.

Some manufacturers also are willing to repair certain problems in specific models free of charge, even if the manufacturer’s warranty does not cover the problem. Ask the manufacturer’s zone representative or the service department of a franchised dealership that sells your car model whether there is such a policy.

Other Approaches You Can Try

If you cannot get satisfaction from the dealer or from a manufacturer’s zone representative, contact the Better Business Bureau or a state agency, such as the office of the attorney general, the department of motor vehicles, or a consumer protection office. Many states also have county and city offices that intervene or mediate on behalf of individual consumers to resolve complaints.

You also might consider using a dispute resolution organization to arbitrate your disagreement if you and the dealer are willing. Under the terms of many warranties, this may be a required first step before you can sue the dealer or manufacturer. Check your warranty to see if this is the case. If you bought your car from a franchised dealer, you may be able to seek mediation through the Automotive Consumer Action Program (AUTOCAP), a dispute resolution program coordinated nationally by the National Automobile Dealers Association and sponsored through state and local dealer associations in many cities. Check with the dealer association in your area to see if they operate a mediation program.

If none of these steps is successful, you can consider going to small claims court, where you can resolve disputes involving small amounts of money for a low cost, often without an attorney. The clerk of your local small claims court can tell you how to file a suit and what the dollar limit is in your state.

The Magnuson-Moss Warranty Act also may be helpful. Under this federal law, you can sue based on breach of express warranties, implied warranties, or a service contract. If successful, consumers can recover reasonable attorney’s fees and other court costs. A lawyer can advise you if this law applies to your situation.

For Further Help

If you want additional information about warranties or service contracts or about new car leasing or buying, send for these free FTC brochures:

? Warranties
? Service Contracts
? Car Ads: Low-Interest Loans and Other Offers
? New Car Buying Guide
? A Consumer Guide to Vehicle Leasing

Write: Public Reference, Federal Trade Commission, Washington, DC 20580.

If you have additional questions about the Used Car Rule, contact the Federal Trade Commission Office nearest you.

Federal Trade Commission Headquarters
6th & Pennsylvania Avenue, N.W.
Washington, DC 20580
(202) 326-2222
TDD: (202) 326-2502

Federal Trade Commission Regional Offices
1718 Peachtree Street, N.W.
Atlanta, Georgia 30367
(404) 347-4836

10 Causeway Street
Boston, Massachusetts 02222
(617) 565-7240

55 East Monroe Street
Chicago, Illinois 60603
(312) 353-4423

668 Euclid Avenue
Cleveland, Ohio 44114
(216) 522-4207

100 N. Central Expressway
Dallas, Texas 75201
(214) 767-5501

1405 Curtis Street
Denver, Colorado 80202
(303) 844-2271

11000 Wilshire Boulevard
Los Angeles, California 90024
(213) 209-7575

150 William Street
New York, New York 10038
(212) 264-1207

901 Market Street
San Francisco, California 94103
(415) 744-7920

915 Second Avenue
Seattle, Washington 98174
(206) 553-4656

Lee Porter an author and entrepreneur for HealthSufficiency, a continuing health, personal development and life dynamic education and business development company helping people to be meet their potential to lead healthy, prosperous and successful lives.

Tags: usedcars, used car sales, buying a used car, used car warranties

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No need for scraping. This clear pink liquid melts ice away instantly and stops ice forming on any window. It works quickly and is harmless to glass, paint, and wax finishes. Will not cause rusting. It reduces the hazards of winter driving by stopping sticking blinding ice from adhering to all car windows giving complete and continued visibility. The formula was originally developed for windshields on Arctic dive bombers!

Formula Based on Analysis:

Magnesium Chloride Hexahydrate . . . . . 17 1/2 ounces
Isopropyl Alcohol, 91% . . . . . . . . . 82 1/2 ounces

Process:

The magnesium chloride is simply dissolved in the Isopropyl Alcohol. You can add any desired alcohol soluble color to give desired tint. The original product contains a small amount of perfume. You can add about one dram of an inexpensive perfume oil to above quantity, if you wish.

Store in 4 ounce plastic bottle, pink molded plastic cap.

Label: Ice Melter.

Directions for use:

Squirt on windshield. Ice melts rapidly (depending on weather). Takes a few seconds at the most.

Sources of Supply:
Magnesium Chloride from Mallinckrodt Chemical Works, 2nd & Mallinckrodt Sts., St. Louis, Missouri.

Carborundum Metals Co., PO Box 32, Akron, NY
Howe & French, Inc., 99 – 101 Broad St., Boston, Mass.
Harshaw Chemical Co., 1945 E. 97th St., Cleveland, OH

In small lots most any wholesale drug or chemical house can supply both Magnesium Chloride and 91% Isopropyl Alcohol.

Isopropyl Alcohol, 91% from:

Enjay Chemical Co., Inc., 15 W. 51st St., New York, NY
Union Carbide Chemicals Co., 30 E. 42nd St., New York, NY
Howe and French, Inc., 99 – 101 Broad St., Boston, Mass.
Mallinckrodt Chemical Works, 2nd & Mallinckrodt Sts., St. Louis, Missouri
Shell Chemical Co., 50 W. 50th St., New York, NY

Perfume Oils and Alcohol Soluble Color from:

Felton Chemical Co., 509 Johnson Ave., Brooklyn, NY
Magnus, Mabee & Rayard Co., Inc., 16 Desbrosses St., New York, NY
Fritzsche Bros., Inc., 76 – 9th Ave., New York, NY

Plastic Bottles from:

Foster Grant, Inc., Industrial Services Division, Manchester, NH

Continental Can Co., Plastic Container Division, 415 Madison Ave., New York, NY

Lee Porter an author and entrepreneur for HealthSufficiency, a continuing health, personal development and life dynamic education and business development company helping people to be meet their potential to lead healthy, prosperous and successful lives.

Tags: windshieldde-icer, car care, safe driving

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Living on a farm, homestead, or just a small country estate, we often find much of the repair work falls on us. Home repairs, appliances, and oh Lord, that ever-present one-cylinder engine.

One-cylinder engines are most common in sizes from 2 to 12 horsepower, carrying with it the same basic characteristics of any gasoline engine. Trouble-shooting the one-cylinder, however, is somewhat different from the 4, 6, or 8-cylinder.

When larger engines (those in autos with 4 or more cylinders) are having problems, they will usually run. Not always smooth, but they run. The one-cylinder, when something is wrong, may not even start, let alone run. For that reason the one-cylinder engine is a harder one to trouble-shoot.

Trouble-shooting the small engine, if you know how, can save you quite a bit of your hard earned cash. Usually when one doesn’t start we buy a tune-up kit when it needs nothing more than a new plug. Worse yet, the plug may just need cleaning. If we decide something is wrong with the carburetor we usually buy a new one. Needless to say, much of the work and expense that goes into the repair of a small engine is unnecessary. We work by trial-and-error until we’ve spent the price of a new engine and then take it to a mechanic who works on it for 20 minutes and charges us for a full hour at $24 per hour or more – just for labor!

Another important thing to remember about a small engine if you live close to a small town is it’s sometimes a hard one to get repaired. Even though there are more mechanics today specializing in small engines, there are still towns that don’t have a single small engines mechanic. Auto mechanics usually don’t work on lawn mowers or power chain saws.

There are only two things that a small one-cylinder engine must have to run. It must have an adequate supply of fuel, and the fuel must be getting into the engine. Then there must be an adequate supply of ignition spark. These two points are known to mechanics as “gas and fire”.

First, let’s take a closer look at the gas. Before you go a single step farther, find the air adjustment valve on the carburetor. Turn the screw to the right as fall as it will go.Now turn it back to the left 2-1/2 turns. If the carburettor works function at all, it’ll work right there.

To test to see if the carburetor is getting gas, remove the air breather. Set your troddle of choke (or start) and pull the rope starter. Look into the top of the carburetor. If gas is visible it is unlikely that the problem is with the carburetor. If you think the problem might still be gas, try this one. Using the palm of your hand, cover the opening on top of the carburetor. Pull the rope starter again. Pay close attention (by feel) which way the air is going through the carburetor. Is it sucking your palm into the carburetor or is it trying to blow it out? If it blows, you have problems with your valves. Chances are one of them is burned and will need replacing – a charge of $100 or more if you take it to the shop but less than $20 if you do it yourself.

The next point to check if the engine still isn’t running is the fire. The fire consists of the coil (or magneto), the breaker points and the plug. A coil will usually outlive the engine twice-over. The points and plug, however, are a different story. They usually need replacing at least one a year – call it an annual tune-up.

To check the points in the engine, remove the plug wire. Hold it with insulated pliers about 1/4 inch from the end of the plug. Pull the rope starter. If the points are breaking properly, you will be able to see the spark as it jumps from the wire to the plug. If no fire is seen, replace your points.

When you check the wire, there might be a spark coming to the plug. If it is getting to the plug, it is possible that it isn’t getting through it. Remove the plug from the engine. Put it back on the plug wire and pull the rope starter. Be sure the plug is grounded against the engine. If no fire is visible coming from the end of the plug, replace the plug with a new one.

The small engine is popular all over the world and will be with us for many years to come. You would do well to learn to fix it.

Lee Porter an author and entrepreneur for HealthSufficiency, a continuing health, personal development and life dynamic education and business development company helping people to be meet their potential to lead healthy, prosperous and successful lives.

Tags: one-cylinderengines, repair one-cylinder engines

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